Pieces of Porto
Even though I’ve been to Portugal before (the Algarve in 2002 and Lisbon in 2009), I’d somehow never made it to Porto or the Duoro Valley. Stepping into the city on our first day I immediately could tell that Porto felt different. In some ways it’s quieter, yet has the buzz of a city – shopkeepers sweeping their stoops, scooters whizzing in and out of cars, and locals and tourists out and about. On our first day I immediately knew that this city was unique and that we’d be collecting moments and memories through pieces of Porto.
First Day Weariness
We arrived on a direct flight from Newark, weary eyed from no sleep. Hungry, we immediately went out to lunch after we changed and dropped our bags off at the hotel. The air was summer cool, having just broken from a hot heat wave ending the day before. It was a Saturday, so the city was out and restaurants were busy. While we waited for a table Jon and I stopped for an espresso and the kids had popsicles.
We rested a bit during the afternoon and sipped some local port on our balcony. From experience, we have found that when traveling with the kids after an overnight flight, our day of arrival needs to be low key and easy! We went out a bit later in the evening and walked around the town after dinner.
We also stopped by what’s called the most beautiful McDonalds in the world. There is a large bronze Imperial eagle above the entrance. And inside there are crystal chandeliers, a massive stained glass window behind the counter, and ornate friezes along the ceiling.
Exploring the City
Our next day was open! We had nothing planned other than a few things we wanted to see. Our first stop was a five-minute walk to São Bento Station. The main hall of this train station has thousands of hand painted azulejos, showcasing blue and white ceramic tiles that cover nearly every inch of wall. They tell stories of Portugal’s past: battles, rural life, and trains arriving in the country. When you enter this hall there’s a stillness among the bustling travelers… everyone pauses to take it all in.
We then made our way to Sé do Porto, a massive cathedral that sits majestically atop the hill. We walked up a narrow cobblestone street that curled uphill. As the slope steepened the building walls came closer together and the quietness of the city was among us! We rounded a final curve and Sé do Porto was in front of us, with the city spread out below us. We took in the gorgeous view from the lively Terreiro da Sé, a reward for our journey up!
The Ribiera Waterfront
After admiring the view, we made our descent down towards the river. This took us through narrow, quiet alleyways and steep slopes and stairs. We suddenly emerged into the bright open space of the Ribiera waterfront! It was filled with people and musicians, who were oddly all playing the same exact song as by the cathedral, “Sultans of Swing”.
We decided to hop on the 6 Bridges River Cruise. This is a 50-minute cruise that takes you down the Duoro River under the six bridges of Porto. We boarded a large traditional rabelo boat, the wooden deck creaking beneath our feet. The boat headed west first, under the famous Ponte Dom Luís and watched as the waterfront drifted away. We enjoyed the wind and sun and retreated to the inside when we needed a quiet break. This was one of my favorite activities here since you really get a sense of how beautiful the area is.
After disembarking we walked to the Dom Luís Bridge, which was designed by a disciple of Gustav Eiffel. Pedestrians can cross the top deck, while cars can roll along on the lower level. There was a market along the water and wineries and restaurants across the way.
Port Tasting & Food
We had researched a kid friendly port winery and popped into there for a tasting of chocolate and port. They had an engaging, hands-on pre-tour experience that we all enjoyed. The tour itself was lost on the kids and we could have done without it, but everybody enjoyed the tasting at the end! The kids were given juice and five different pieces of chocolate to try. We had port wine instead of juice.
Afterward, we found a nearby restaurant for lunch. I tried the traditional Francesinha lunch dish, which consists of layers of toasted bread with assorted hot meats, over sliced melted cheese, sitting in a tomato and beer sauce. And it was served with French fries, which is the typical side dish.
After that, we made our way to the Chocolate Experience, which is a multi-sensory experience where you can see, taste, and smell the history of chocolate. You move from room to room where displays tell the journey of chocolate, the cocoa smell permeating the air.
While this was well done and the kids enjoyed it (especially at the end when there were opportunities to win chocolate), I wouldn’t base my day around it if you don’t have a lot of time or are traveling without kids.
We Need More Time!
We passed through a riverside market and did some shopping. After crossing back over the bridge we had wanted to take the funicular back up to the center, but the line was LONG! And we had been out for a while and didn’t want to wait. But there was also no way we were getting the kids back up to our hotel. So we called an Uber, which quickly picked us up, and we were back at our hotel in no time.
We spent our next days there wandering the streets, shopping in the local markets, eating delicious food, and just enjoying all that Porto had to offer. I could have spent much more time there – I wasn’t ready for it to end. The warmth of the people, the authenticity of the city, and the sweet aroma of the port wine, made me fall in love with pieces of Porto!
